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One of my favorite approaches that’s really helped me with my style and wardrobe building is the cost per wear methodology. If you’re not familiar, cost per wear is a way of measuring the real value of a piece by how often you’ll wear it. But what does that actually mean, and how do you use it when shopping? Let’s get into it.
Cost per wear is about thinking through how much use and versatility you’ll get out of something. It’s simple: take the price of the item, add any maintenance costs like tailoring or dry cleaning, and divide that by how often you think you’ll wear it. It doesn’t need to be exact. The point is to get a better sense of whether something will actually earn its place in your wardrobe.
Take, for example, a $300 vintage St. John knit skirt, one of my first high-end vintage purchases. It might sound steep, but if it’s a classic piece that you wear often, it’s likely a better investment than a cheaper skirt that stretches out or fades after a couple of wears. I bought it about six years ago and still wear it weekly during the colder months. At this point, the cost has more than paid for itself.
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That mindset has been especially useful when considering higher-priced pieces, whether new or secondhand. It’s when I get most intentional about what I’m buying. I pay close attention to fabric composition, stitching, and overall construction. If something is well made, holds up with wear, and fits into multiple parts of my life, then it earns its place in my wardrobe.
I also factor in the upkeep. Personally, I don’t want to deal with constant dry cleaning, and I avoid delicate pieces like sequins or feathers unless I really love them. Same goes for items that need special storage or care, like furs or certain leathers. For example, I wouldn’t choose an exotic or patent leather bag as my everyday purse — they’re prone to scratches and require more maintenance than I want to deal with. That said, I’ll make an exception now and then, especially if I’m going for that slightly wrecked Olsen look. In those cases, I buy the piece secondhand and already worn in.
I started applying this methodology more seriously in 2018, when I found myself working in more corporate environments. Before that, I hadn’t really used it. I thought I couldn’t afford nicer things, which was sometimes true, but I was also spending too much on pieces that didn’t last. My mindset was focused on volume, not value. Over time I got frustrated with poor fabric quality and disappointing fits. That’s when I started learning more about materials and construction to better understand what I’m paying for. So, all this to say, quality over quantity.
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These days, I always ask myself: How often will I wear this? How much care does it need? Do I actually love it? If something feels just okay when I try it on, I probably won’t reach for it. That usually means it isn’t a great value. I don’t believe in dressing to feel mid. I want to feel good in my clothes so they actually get worn.
For a lot of people, thinking in terms of cost per wear naturally leads to building a capsule wardrobe. When you focus on pieces that are versatile, well made, and thoughtfully chosen, you end up with a closet that works harder for you. If you're curious about how to start, I put together a guide to building a capsule wardrobe right here.
What I love about the cost per wear method is that it makes me more thoughtful — and honestly, more creative. It’s fun to figure out how to style the same piece in different ways. A silk slip skirt that works for the office, dinner, or errands? That’s a win. It’s also helped me clarify my personal style and how I want to show up in the world. Clothes can be just for you, but they’re also a form of expression. That awareness has given me more confidence and made getting dressed feel a lot more intentional.
Whatever you’re looking for, cost per wear can be shaped to fit your lifestyle and budget. Like anything else, it just takes a little creativity.
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